Phong Nka National Park (Jan. 6, 7, 2015)

Jan. 6, 2015

This morning I got up early to catch the bus and then ferry back to Hanoi. Everything went well, except having to wait for the big bus to Hanoi, after the ferry ride. Amy, two Germans and I waited at this make shift bus station for the big bus to come and pick us up, for almost an hour. I didn’t really mind as long as they came in enough time to get us to Hanoi in time for me to catch my night Sleeper Bus to go to Phong Nha National Park.

Puppies at bus station for Rachel

More puppies

Make shift bus station

We sat patiently and waited for the bus to come, while watching the cute puppies. It was really quite pleasant and since I had fruit for snacks, I was happy.

Amy and I flagged a cab to take us back to the Hanoi Hostel, once we reached the Hanoi Bus Station. She was catching a train to Hue, and I was catching the bus to Phong Nha. We returned to the hostel around 2 pm and I had until 6 pm to do what I wanted. First stop……….Egg Coffee place for a nice sit, people watch and coffee.

Then I walked around Hanoi listening to the ever present honking horns of the motorbikes and busy busy traffic.

Busy traffic in Hanoi

I went to the market to get some dry food snacks for the bus ride. I found some salted peas, and some yummy crackers that are like Arrowroot Biscuits called Cosy biscuits. That and the fruit would be perfect for the bus ride, along with a bottle of water, though I didn’t want to drink much before leaving…….lol.

Then I went back to that restaurant, Bun Bo Nambo, that I told you about when I first went to Hanoi. I had a nice bowl of noodles, beef, greens, bean sprouts and peanuts. It was delicious and just perfect as there wasn’t too much soup in it.

The van came to collect me for the bus around 6:30 pm, took me and a packed van full of other travellers, to the bus pick up point where everyone was milling around not knowing which bus went where. Slowly, it got sorted out and I received my book of tickets allowing me passage to several places on the way to Saigon, from Hanoi. This on/off bus is so practical as you can stay for as long as you want, without worry, and just book the bus to the next place when you want to go.

Sleeper bus

Sleeper bus

Outside of bus

 The ride was fine, but long, about 10 hours, though I slept for quite a bit of it. The sleeper bus is a great idea, but they haven’t mastered the sleeper bus as well as they did in Argentina or Mexico. Nonetheless, it was pretty good and I was comfy and able to stretch out. We arrived in front of the Easy Tiger Hotel in Phong Nha around 4:50 am the next morning. It was fine, and they knew I was coming, along with several others. We were allowed to sit in the reception on the couches, or around a nice fire that was burning in the front area. The staff came in at 6 am and did the check in, etc.

Jan. 7, 2015

Today, which is really just part of yesterday still, I went on a boat tour of the National Park and two caves. I saw Phong Nha cave which means ‘dragon’s teeth’ and another cave called Ton Lon Cave. It’s a beautiful cave that is 500 steps up the side of a mountain to reach. You pass through a temple first, and then get to that cave. First, let me tell you about the Phong Nha Cave. It was spectacular. We got a group of 10 people together from the hostel, interested in visiting these two caves. There was an older couple, travelling, who were in their late 60’s, a young Spanish couple, two German girls and two older (my age) American girls, oh, and one British guy. We were a great group and everyone was really fun. We got a dragon boat at the dock, to take us to the caves. It was about a 45 minute ride in the boat, along a river to reach there. On the way, we saw much of the rural small town life along the shores as well as in the boats, clearing weeds from the river, and fishing. It was an amazing scene and super peaceful.

Me and Marlene for Nova Scotia

Group at ticket booth for boat

Our captain walking around boat

Me on the boat

The dragon boats

Our captain

Dragon boats

On river, pulling weeds up

River sight

River sight

River sight

River sight

Once we got to Phong Nha Cave, we entered the cave in complete silence, and they rolled back the plastic tarp that was covering the boat, so we could see the wonderful cave. It was magical and though it was a little rainy today, looking at caves was an awesome choice for something to do. It was used in the Vietnam War as a Hospital Cave, where they hid boats during the day, and used them at night to bring medical equipment to the needy within the cave. An interesting history, until the Americans found out about the cave being used for this, and started bombing it. The name had originally been based on the two huge stalagmites at the entrance to the cave, which looked like two large dragon teeth. Then the bombing began and the ‘teeth’ were destroyed so you can no longer see them.

Phong Nha Cave entrance

Cave inside 

Inside cave

Inside cave

Cave

Cave

Cave

After they paddled us through this cave, we looked at the most spectacular formations with many colours and illumination placed in strategic places to light up the sights. It was incredible and almost surreal. I had expected cool caves, but this was way beyond what I thought I would see.

Same

Walking inside cave

When they had finished paddling us up and down the long river within the cave, they let us off to walk through the remaining portions that were open to the public. This included vast areas of the cave, done by foot and surrounded by sand. There were so many amazing formations resembling anything from body parts, to vegetation, to different plants, to cotton candy. 

Then we walked to the end of this cave and began to climb the 500 stone steps up to the next cave. By the time we got to the top, all ten of us were so proud that we’d made it up there, we just sat and took pictures of ourselves before even entering the cave. There was me with Cleo, Ted and Marlene who were more mature, Silke who said she was huffing because she was out of shape, and Sherry who was carrying a bit of extra weight. Yet, all of us made it and explored this beautiful cave for a couple of hours before making our way back down and back into the boat for the ride back. 

Temple part way up to Tien Lon Cave

Our group at the top!

Yoga in the cave

One set of the 500 steps

Yoga in the cave

Spanish couple from group

Inside Tien Lon

Several of us stopped for Pho on the way back to the hostel. It was really a great day and the I am so glad I stopped here even though the rain may not let up. Caves are a great way to pass rainy days.

I will go on a tour of the National Park tomorrow, which includes a trek in the jungle for a bit, and exploration of two caves. One is the best known, Paradise Cave and the other is a Dark Cave that you have to swim in to get from one side to the other, then slide around in some mud or something. I think it involves zip lining into the cave as well. Lunch is included and it sounds just wonderful from what the others that did it today were saying.

More tomorrow.