Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Hanoi, Vietnam (Dec. 29, 30, 2014)

Dec. 29
Yesterday I spent the day with Stella, waiting for it to be time for me to catch my Tuk Tuk to the Phnom Penh Airport to board a flight to Hanoi. It is always a little scary to leave a country that you’ve gotten a bit familiar with, to go to another country where you know nothing, and cannot even convert the currency into anything that makes sense to you. It’s exciting at the same time, but a lot of work that you don’t have to do once you’re  comfortable somewhere.

I felt really bad for Stella, having missed her flight and stressing that her Cambodian Visa would run out at the end of the day on the 29th, as would mine. Well, luck was finally on her side, as she did find another flight that was leaving before midnight and it even happened to be a more direct flight to Toronto than the one she had previously booked. We hung out, I helped her pack her bag again to include the 3 kgs of spicy nuts she was bringing back for gifts. Then we went for breakfast and just chilled for a while. It was a nice breezy day, but got really hot early in the afternoon. I was thinking that Hanoi would be a nice break in the heat as it’s quite a bit further north and tends to be cooler this time of year.

I went for a massage before I was to get my Tuk Tuk and enjoyed a great massage by a bling woman at the Seeing Hands Massage place that was just behind our hostel. She was awesome and I felt much better after having it.

Then Stella and I went for our last Cambodian lunch together at a soup place around the corner. It was really nice to have a bowl of soup together before parting company. Then we said our goodbyes and my Tuk Tuk driver loaded me up and off we went to the airport.


Soup for lunch
Stella paying at the soup vendor


Tuk Tuk ride to airport......yikes,
it's going to be a close one.

On the way sight


















Sculpture at Phnom Penh Airport
Once on the Vietnam Airlines plane, after a 50 minute delay in boarding, we were off to Vietiane, Laos, first, then to Hanoi. I arrived without any problems and my Visa was all in order so I just sailed through the Immigration checkpoint to find my young driver waiting anxiously outside the baggage area holding a sign with my name on it. Boy was I glad to see him, as by then, it was about 10:30 pm and very far to get to the city, busy and unfamiliar for me. He was sweet, spoke a bit of English, was 25 years old and asked me where my husband was. I told him I didn’t have one so he asked me how old I was. I told him and he said it was the same age as his dad…lol. Then we sang karaoke to his kicking stereo almost all the way to the hostel. He liked old music, which I actually knew, and Karaoke is super big here, so we belted it out. It was really fun.



My first intro to Vietnamese
Interesting to see it in these two
languages
Flight attendant for Vietnam Airlines
Hanoi International Airport
Arrivals










Dec. 30
Today I got up around 6:30 am as one of the people in the room was leaving and was packing her bag etc. I was well rested because I went to bed around 11:30 or so and slept like a log, so it was ok. I didn’t get up, but was awake, thinking and being cozy. Oh yeah, when I arrived in Hanoi, I stepped out of the airport to a brisk 12 degrees or so. It was a bit of a shock in my light cotton pants, long sleeved shirt and hoodie, but not really too bad, just different than what I’ve been used to for the past two months. This morning it was chilly, but as the day wore on, the temperature rose to about 20 or 21 degrees with a bright sun. It was great not to be sweating, wearing my hat and loads of sunscreen. I don’t mind the break in the weather, one bit. I will be fine to work my way down south into the heat again, but for a few days or weeks, the northern weather will suit me well. It’s not rainy or grey and quite comfortable. 

I went to the top floor of the hostel, the rooftop, to have the included daily breakfast, which was really quite good. Jon, the coffee is amazing and I had three cups this morning. I can’t believe the price and quality of this place, it’s called the Hanoi Hostel and I found it online and booked it after checking the ratings and not finding many other hostels here that have female only dorms. I love the female dorms because usually the snoring is a lot less, if at all. Anyway, I think this place costs 5.50 US per night, with the breakfast included and an incredible tour, bus and event booking option at the front desk if you want it. What a deal! Oh, they give you free beer between 6-7 pm as well, though that’s not for me as I don’t drink beer. It is a real plus for poor backpackers though and helps with the meeting of others in the hostel

View from terrace
Included breakfast



Breakfast bar where you get the food
My dorm room

My bed by the window

View from the window





Bathroom within the room





























Then I gathered up my courage, grabbed the map and decided to head out for a walk around. That too is always a bit daunting on your first foray out into a new city. Especially when the traffic is just nuts, and you have no idea how to really get around or where you are. I am staying in the Old Quarter in Hanoi, which is full of little streets that weave in and out of themselves, and change names several times without notice. The nice thing here is, that they do actually have street signs, which were few and far between in Cambodia. 

The first stop for me was to get some of my US money changed into Vietnamese Dong, as none of the shops or restaurants will accept US currency. A girl I met told me that she and her boyfriend went to the money exchange place recommended by the front desk. I asked her how much they gave them for the exchange, she said 20,000 Dong for a US dollar. Ok, so off I went, in that direction to find the exchange place. The girl I met told me to look for a place that looked like it bought your old gold for money. I pictured the Oliver guy in Toronto and laughed to myself. Before I got anywhere near that place, I stopped at a bank to ask what rate they would give me. I had looked it up online before leaving and it said just over 21,000 Dong per US dollar. Anyway, this bank said they would buy the US for 21, 360 for each dollar, so I grabbed it. Seemed fair to me, and as much as the currency rate stated online so that was cool.



Street scene

Very busy with traffic all the time






Beautiful fruit here
Scene while walking


















Next, I wanted to find myself a tiny calculator because there was no way I could possibly rely on my brain to do the conversions for the money, when bartering with people. Also, since my Vietnamese language skills are not good enough to understand the amount they are offering me, putting it on the calculator back and forth for negotiating is really helpful. Finding a little purse size calculator was my first challenge. I stopped in at a few shops, but no one had anything. One lady told me to go to the Market to find one, so that’s where I headed. I did find one there, and bartered with the woman to come away with a purse sized calculator for 3 Canadian dollars. A great deal I thought, and so much fun to go back and forth with the vendors to arrive at a mutually agreeable price. I found out how to say ‘thank you’ and have been using it all day. Everyone laughs a bit, but seems very happy that at least I know how to say that. It is Ka Moon. I don’t know if that’s how you spell it, but that’s how you say it.



The Market
The Market 












After that, I decided to try to find this coffee place that the girl I met told me about. She said that a university student who took them on a tour told her about it. I walked and walked trying to find this place by the address, but had little luck. I thought I’d give it one more try and that maybe it was on the cross street and not the street I was on. Sure enough it was, so I stopped, sat down and had a fantastic Vietnamese coffee. It was great and the shop was so interesting. Jon, you would have loved it and I thought of you throughout that whole experience.

Kim Lai Coffee Shop


My coffee
This was the coffee I tried
Many coffees to try
The grinders in the shop




The shop from across the street












Next, I thought I would try to see if I could find the Botanical Gardens, which were a fair walk, out of the Old Quarter and to the west a bit. I really enjoyed finding my way there as I saw the city change from tiny streets with nowhere to walk, to large streets with sidewalks and traffic lights. Check out some of the photos of this walk, it was really cool. The Gardens were lovely, quiet in the middle of the honking traffic, and peaceful. The entrance fee to go there was 11 cents Canadian or 200 Dong. I found that so funny.



On the way to the gardens
Gardens
In the Botanical Gardens 




Lady feeding the doves



















Since the Gardens were pretty far away, I decided to stop at a lovely looking street Pho place for a bowl of soup. There were many locals eating there and the soup looked amazing, so I stopped. It was amazing and had all sorts of things in it, as you can see. It was 1.67 for the bowl, which is just ridiculous, but ever so wonderful. Jan, remember the first time you and dad took me to eat Pho soup in Winnipeg? I ended up going there many times in the following years, to that same place I started in. Also, for all of you that have eaten Pho with me in Kensington Market, which is a good number of readers…..lol……you would have found this incredible. I’m not even sure if it actually was Pho, but it was close enough and super fantastic. I’ll have to conduct further research to let you know….hahaha.

My Pho soup...mmmm













I stopped at Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum to take photos, but it ended up not to be the right place, so I’ll have to try again another day. I did see the Museum though, and will return there to go in, but my hooves were too sore today and it was getting late, so I didn’t go in today. There were just so many cool things to see. Later I went to dinner with some other girls from my hostel. Japanese, Swedish and the rest Canadian, working as teachers in Japan and Australia.



Group for dinner
Bon dinner, so good 

Bakery we had dessert at

Same

Same





Sunday, December 28, 2014

Beach and Bus (Dec. 27, 28, 2014)

Dec. 27
Today I slept in a bit and then walked to Independence Beach for my last lazy beach day before going back to Phnom Penh to catch my flight to Vietnam. I met Rouven at the beach and we chatted, I drew, and we swam. Laure-Elie joined us later in the afternoon and told me all about the guy she met up with from Laos, and how wonderful everything was. It was really cute and I was happy for her. It was also sad, because we both knew that today would be our last day to hang out. She is going on to Thailand, and me to Vietnam.

I arranged with Rouven to meet for dinner later that evening, and went back to the hostel to shower, chat with Stella, and meet him. Poor Stella told me that she just got news that her mother had been hospitalized in Toronto with some kind of heart issue. She was making arrangements to go to Toronto asap. She was supposed to join me to visit Vietnam, but now will not be able to as she is going home. I hope everything works out ok, as she is worried as well as being sorry to cut her trip short.

After eating supper at a Khmer restaurant that Rouven had tried, we walked around a bit, then I begged off to go back to my hostel as I was pretty tired from diving and needed to organize my stuff for the 9 am bus trip to Phnom Penh. 

Dec. 28/29
The bus trip from Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh was great. If ever you do this trip either way, try to take the Giant Ibis Bus Lines as the buses are roomy, air conditioned, and show movies during the trip. I liked this company because of these things, plus it is one block away from the One Stop Hostel in Phnom Penh, once you get there. Stella and I took this bus, though they overbooked and needed to send two buses, so we didn’t ride together, but arrived at exactly the same time, so that was ok.

Once in Phnom Penh, I took Stella to visit Sopheap at the hair salon. We sat there for a while sipping a cool drink and chatting in between clients, to Sopheap. He is so sweet and arranged for one of his guys that work there, to buy Stella several bags of these spicy, yummy peanuts they put out for the guests. She was going to take them home for presents to Toronto, on her midnight flight.

We went for a street soup on the way back, and then ran into a nice English girl at the hostel. We sat outside with her chatting until Stella had to catch her Tuk Tuk to the airport. Then the English girl, Natalie, and I went for a walk to see some sites and ended up in a new area of town that I had heard about with a great dance club. She loved to dance so we checked it out, but it was too early and no one was there yet. We decided to sit outside at an open place, have a drink and watch people. She was getting up early to go to the Killing Fields, so we didn’t go back to the dance club as it was already getting late.

When we got back to the hostel, another girl I had met said that my friend had returned, saying they messed up on the flight and it had gone at 12:00 the earlier morning, not this evening. Anyway, I looked for Stella, but she had already gone to bed, so I just connected with her in the morning. She had already booked another flight that goes out on Dec. 29th so we went for breakfast, and are now just killing time until I go to the airport for Hanoi.

Well now you’re caught up. Sorry, no more pics, but I will get back at it once in Vietnam.

Love you all.

Christmas and Boxing Day Diving (Dec. 25, 26, 2014)

These two days were filled with adventure, beauty and fun. I left to meet everyone at Scuba Nation Dive Center for 7 am on Christmas Day. There were 6 of us all together, plus the three dive masters and the two crew. 

Divers and dive master
Divers and one dive master











We were driven out to the pier, which was about 15 minutes away, by van. We boarded the boat and off we went, to our first dive site, which was about a 2 hour boat ride. The water was beautiful and the landscape breathtaking. They got all of us to go up to the top level for a ‘briefing’ about what was going to go on. While they were telling us about the trip and our first dive, others were below setting up our Christmas breakfast, complete with a little Christmas tree and presents. It was so cute and really touched my heart. The breakfast was great too, nothing super special, but just plain good. My favourite part of the meal was the jar of peanut butter they had, along with jam and fresh buns. Yes, I even ate the buns, as I so wanted to have the peanut butter. It was delicious and a fantastic Christmas breakfast on the ocean. Here are some of the pics.



6 divers and one dive master
Us on the boat before leaving the
pier.



View as boat left the pier

Christmas morning

Christmas morning

My Christmas gifts

Presents 

Private resort on island........
$3000 US per night!

Me on Christmas morning

View from the boat as we left






































After breakfast and present opening, we got ready to do our first dive. What an incredible thing to do on Christmas morning with a lovely blue ocean and water temperature at 28 degrees with a nice sun. The dive site was called Sponge Garden at Koh Rong Samloem, Cambodia and it was an ok dive, but visibility wasn’t great, only about 3 meters or so. The water had a lot of particles stirred up and it was difficult to see anything very far away. I did see some lovely corals though, which I hadn’t seen many of in Thailand. That was cool. Also, my new mask that I bought, was leaking a lot from one side, and ended up being too big for me. Luckily, I had another one along with my diving gear, from the dive shop, and used it after the second dive, which made a world of difference. After the trip, they swapped my mask for a smaller one that fits perfectly so all worked out.
Once finished our first dive, which lasted about 50 minutes, we got back onto the boat to go to our second dive site which was called Nudy Branchs Heaven. It too was near the island of Koh Rong Samloem. We stayed down for 59 minutes on this dive, so that was great. The boat guy that assisted the captain had cooked our lunch which was ready and waiting for us to have before the second dive. It was a yummy Khmer rice dish with lots of carrots, veggies, peppers and other things in it, nicely spiced. As well he had done some pan fried chicken fillets with a nice spice as well. There were egg omelettes and sweet chill sauce with Cambodian fruit for dessert. Amazing! 


Khmer rice dish
Egg omelettes and chicken


My yummy lunch bowl
Again, the water was mirky with limited visibility, but there were some amazing fish to see and it was just wonderful to be under water, listening to my breath, and gliding through the sea. I kept thinking that this was Christmas day and how incredible it was that I was under water, enjoying all the beautiful marine life.

Sites along the way
Beautiful beach along island











After the second dive, the captain took a break, and he and the boat boy helper started fishing off the back of the boat. They used only fishing line with a hook and weight on the end. They would throw it into the sea, then feel it over their fingers, and pull the line in when they felt a fish. They kept reeling fish after fish after fish into the boat using this method. Apparently, you can feel the fish bite a lot better without a rod. It was incredible to watch and you could tell that both of them loved the water, sea and boat more than anything.
Happy Captain

Bucket of fish at the beginning
Captain fishing



Bucket of fish growing every cast











My third dive, the night dive, was the best. I used the smaller mask, had no problems with the water coming in, and the visibility was much better at this site. I love diving at night as everything looks different and the dark water is exciting and lovely. We went down and immediately saw the beautiful plankton that is iridescent and lights up everything when you move in the water. I saw two blow fish, many other small, sleeping fish, and lots of pretty coral. It was the best dive of the day, by far. I came up feeling energized and so happy to have shared this with the sea. The dive site was called Two Tone on the other side of the island, Koh Rong Samloem. There are many places to dive near and around this island. It was actually closer to another small island, but I didn’t get the name of that one. We stayed down for the night dive for about 45 minutes which was an incredible dive. The last two dives were only about 7 meters deep, but this one was about 12 meters.

Once I showered and got dressed, we sat down to our Christmas dinner. It was so sweet, the extra thought and effort that the dive company put into our meal. We had pate, crackers, olives, pickles, wine, both red and white, bread, pasta with homemade fish in a tomato sauce, as well as real blue, camembert and some other kind of cheese, for dessert. It was really lovely and we all enjoyed it.


Christmas sunset
Christmas dinner group


Pate

Fish pasta

Table for supper

Christmas wine being opened with
no bottle opener.....lol.

Dessert cheeses



























Soon after that, we were all ready to crash, so we went up to the top level of the boat to find the tarps put down, and mattresses on cots or risers, with blankets, and sheets for each of us. It was lovely to sleep on the rocking boat with the wind blowing over me, and the smell of the sea, rocking me to sleep. I think everyone fell asleep in 5 minutes.


Beds for sleeping
I got a double sized mattress
Waking up in the morning
 The next day, Boxing Day, we awoke, and had breakfast which was buns, omelettes with onions and peppers, some sausages and fruit. Then we drove for a while in the boat to our first dive site of the day. It was a gorgeous day, very clear with bright sunshine and looked amazing for diving. We arrived at Victoria’s Secret Garden site and were in the water by 8:30. The visibility was much better than yesterday and we could see for about 8-10 meters in front of us. The water wasn’t mirky and the conditions perfect. On this dive we went down to 12 meters for about 56 minutes and saw some real specimens that we hadn’t before. There was school of Kobie fish which I think belong to the eel family that are cream in colour, round, skinny and long. These ones were about 6 feet long and surprised me a little to see them just hanging out by the rocks. I haven’t seen fish this large before so out of the blue, to see them there, was pretty cool. As well, I kept feeling that there was a string or something from my equipment, brushing on my bare legs. I looked down and saw a Needle Fish or Raymora, which is long, black and white, and cleans larger fish by sticking onto them and nibbling off the excess skin or whatever. It also surprised me but kept up to us for over half an hour, only attaching itself to me……lol. It was a very neat experience and I couldn’t help feel that in some way I was special and that it wasn’t scared of me, but instead wanted to show me the love. I am so very lucky with the things that happen to me.


View from the boat
Different view
Happy me
We finished with that dive, then got back onto the boat. The captain wasn’t ready to go to our next site yet, so we stayed in this little calm, clear water bay, next to the island. I thought the water looked so inviting that I put on my mask, snorkel and fins and went snorkelling for a while before we had to leave. It was a great idea and I saw so many huge schools of wrasse, parrot fish and many many others. It was so gorgeous and they were as clear to see as ever because the water was like glass. I saw incredible things along the reef of the island and stayed in the water for about an hour before we had to pull up anchor to leave.

Blue clear water on Boxing Day
Snorkeling was great here
Kitchen on boat
Our last dive site was called Koh Kon West and was amazing as well. It was such a great day for diving today. We stayed down for 50 minutes at 12 meters and saw great things, again. This time I saw a huge blue spotted Sting Ray, a large spotted Grouper and a Sea Star, which I have never seen before. I wasn’t even sure what it was until after we got back onto the boat and I looked in the large fish book. Then I found it and knew what the name of it was.

We chugged back to land for about 4 hours, got back into the van and were taken back to the Scuba Nation office for final goodbyes. What a fantastic Christmas, even if I wasn’t with family. I really enjoyed what I did, and will never forget my tropical, marine Christmas.


Hope you enjoyed it too!